The settlement of Ballyconneely is beautifully situated on a scenic peninsula a few miles to the south of Clifden, the “capital of the Connemara”. The village is surrounded on three sides by the Atlantic Ocean, and the region contains some of the most tranquil, unspoilt and interesting countryside to be found in this part of Ireland.

The peninsula is virtually ringed by beaches, and provides ideal opportunities for bathing and shore fishing. The flat land adjacent to many of the beaches contain shell middens and other evidence of ancient settlement of the area.
Ballyconneely’s name certainly pops up in a range of historical events. The first Salmon farming operation in either Britain or Ireland was established at the Dohulla Fishery in 1854.

Alcock and Brown's landing siteOn Sunday June 14th 1919, the first non-stop transatlantic flight ended  about two miles from Ballyconneely Village. Capt. John Alcock and Arthur Whitten Brown had flown their twin-engined Vickers Vimy plane from Newfoundland, Canada, in just over sixteen hours.

They crash landed in a peat bog close to the Marconi Wireless Telegraph Station, set up by Guiglielmo Marconi, the Italian pioneer of wireless telegraphy in 1905, and from where the first transatlantic wireless message was sent to Cape Breton in Nova Scotia in 1907. A memorial has been established at the site of the landing.

Today the area is home to a vibrant, thriving community. The Connemara Golf Club is located between the Twelve Bens Mountains and the Atlantic Ocean, just three miles from Ballyconneely in one of the most splendid settings imaginable. According to renowned golf writer, James W. Finnegan, the golf links of Connemara is

“a perfect reflection of the austere beauty that is the world of Connemara”.

At this point, my description and coverage of this most special part of Ireland has come to a close. Tomorrow, I will be bringing you details of another special part of the world.

Submitted by John Kumm www.onlinetravelconsultant.com

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Irish oyster shuckingOne of the things that we remember fondly of our visit to the Connemara is the fantastic seafood that we enjoyed during our stay. Amongst the things that we enjoyed were the local oysters and a really memorable whole salmon that we cooked on an outside barbeque.

Whilst looking up some news items about Connemara, I discovered an entry that I thought offered a very good example of the ways in which this part of Ireland is really grabbing hold of new opportunities, and applying innovation to build new markets.

Connemara Seafoods Ltd is just such a case in point. This Irish-owned family business, which processes shellfish products into value added products such as frozen mussels in a variety of sauces, recently won the 2006 Export Award of the Irish Exporters Association in the Seafood Exporter category.

The company was formed in 1997 as a spin-off from the family’s fresh shellfish firm. Ann-Marie Mulloy Gautier, co-founder of the company recently commented:

“The mussel industry in Ireland was growing and our market research showed consumer preferences were changing.People don’t necessarily have time to cook so we decided to establish a company that would add value to the existing shellfish products.”

Connemara Seafoods turnover has increased more than twenty-fold since the company was founded and it is continuing to increase substantially.One aspect of the business that really sets this company apart from many others is its strong reliance upon research and development to expand existing market opportunities and develop new ones.

“A core strategic activity is continuous research and development to improve current products, production and processes, to develop new products and innovative, advanced technological methods for processing our products.

“Ideas are generated from our customers, our industry partners, our own team and from research.  The ideas are then input into the New Product Development (NPD) process where they are rigorously screened prior to selection for development approval.

“Following the approval process there is further screening and testing of the product internally initially and then in the market place through our customers before going through a final sign off subject to meeting strict criteria in regard to market potential and commerciality.

This emphasis on R&D is typical of many of the new industries developing in this region. You can find out more by visiting the company’s website.

Whilst you are visiting the Connemara region of Ireland, please make sure that you take the chance to enjoy some of the freshest, tastiest and purest seafood products in the world.

Submitted by John Kumm www.onlinetravelconsultant.com

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Kylemore Abbey, IrleandThe Kylemore Abbey complex, located just out of Letterfrack in County Galway, comprises a picturesque group of buildings standing at the edge of a lake and surrounded by woodlands.

The gothic castle was built by Mitchell Henry, an English businessman in 1865. However, after the tragic death of his wife a few years later, he lost interest in the estate.

Kylemore Abbey is the now Monastic home of the Benedictine Order of Nuns in Ireland. The nuns acquired the property fter haqving fled from Ypres in France during the First World War. The community takes pride in preserving and restoring the estate, comprising a fine house, a miniature Gothic Cathedral and a six-acre Victorian Walled Garden.

Kylemore Abbey is a registered charity. Income from gate receipts and revenue from the craft shop and restaurant are used for the upkeep of the Benedictine Community, and the continuing restoration of the Abbey, Gothic Church and Walled Garden.

There is a fine craft shop in a neat modern building beside the carpark as well as a daytime self-service restaurant, where everything is made on the premises from local produce.

Providing you can cope with occasional influxes of tour buses and resultant crowds, the Abbey offers a range of things to see. You can start with a brief stroll from the abbey along the wooded shore leads to the Gothic church, a fascinating miniature replica of Norwich cathedral. You should also visit the walled Victorian garden which supplies produce to the Garden Tea House.

Submitted by John Kumm www.onlinetravelconsultant.com

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Letterfrack is a small vibrant village on a crossroads beside the sea with a large village green surrounded by trees and overlooked by the majestic Diamond Mountain and Connemara National Park.

The village’s history goes back to 1849, when Quakers, James & Mary Ellis, settled in this location, and set up a shop, school, dispensary and a Temperance Hotel.

Letterfrack Furniture CollegeLetterfrack provides a convenient access point to the Connemara National Park, which aims to promote landscape conservation.

The Park is open to the public from May until the end of September, and offers a variety of activities, inlcuding walks, talks, audio-visual presentations and a display depicting the development of the Connemara landscape over the last 10,000 years or so.

Whilst visiting Letterfrack, you can also visit the old Jesuit school, which has been converted into a community art and craft center.

You should also take the opportunity to visit the Letterfrack Furniture College. It offers the leading program in this specialised field, with a national and international reputation for the quality of its graduates. A permanent exhibition of student work is on display at the college.

The village is also renowned for its live traditional Irish music. Candlelit music sessions and poetry readings are held at regular intervals through the year As well as other organised and impromptu sessions, there is live traditional music every Sunday throughout the year in the Bards Den Pub.

Submitted by John Kumm www.onlinetravelconsultant.com

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There are many options available for those travelers wishing to stay for a few days or more in the Connemara region of Ireland in County Galway. These include:

Hotels

Hotel accommodation covers the full range of facilities likely to be required by anyone. The Connemara offers a range of hotel accommodation from 5 star down to budget accommodation.

Heritage Houses

Heritage houses are private country houses of historic interest offering high-class accommodation. The Connemara offers one or two of this form of accommodation.

Self Catering Accommodation

Heatherhill Cottages, LetterfrackRent your accommodation for the week (or more) and do all the cooking yourself! This way you can cater for a family for small cost and enjoy Connemara on a budget. Accommodation can range from mobile homes to large spacious houses.

When we visited the Connemara, we stayed at Heatherhill Cottages in Letterfrack. This facility offered a great base from which to explore the region, and Letterfrack itself is a lovely quiet village with all of the facilities needed to enjoy the experience within walking distance of our accommodation.

Heatherhill Cottages offers spacious accommodation (5 bedrooms) on three levels, with everything needed to enjoy the travel experience, including an open fireplace in which a peat fire can be lit.

Guesthouses

These vary from five bedroomed family houses, Georgian and Victorian residence to larger professionally serviced modern premises. Some guesthouses provide meals to non residents. Evening meals are available.

Hostels

Providing budget accommodation with excellent self-catering facilities. Many hostels are able to supply meals to guests upon request.

Country homes, Farmhouses and B&Bs

Country homes offer a wide selection of premises such as Georgian residences, modern bungalows, and traditional Irish homes- all with modern amenities and facilities. Farmhouse holidays are attractive for those wishing a temporary escape from the pressures of modern life. Most B&Bs are somewhat more modest, but offer rooms for accommodation, some with ensuite facilities. Evening meals can be provided in some premises if notice is given.

Caravan and Camping Sites

There are a number of caravan and camping sites in Connemara. These cater for tents, caravans and many also rent mobile homes.

Submitted by John Kumm www.onlinetravelconsultant.com

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Connemara is bounded on three sides by the Atlantic and encompasses a wide variety of natural and semi-natural habitats. It comprises a broad peninsula located between two bays in the west of Ireland’s County Galway.
Map of the ConnemaraHuman habitation in the region has been traced back about 7,000 years. At about this time, it was settled by small groups of hunter gatherers, following migrating animals and birds. During the 18th century, Connemara  was considered by the rest of the country as a wild, strange and dangerous place where ancient habits and customs held sway.

On our visit to the Connemara we had no real pre-conceived ideas of just what we were going to find in the region, yet were very pleasantly surprised to find a special mix of the ancient Irish traditions blended with the new.

We booked accommodation at Letterfrack (more on this in a later article), and found this to be a great base from which to explore the region.

The scenery of Connemara is nothing if not spectacular! from the bays and inlets of this much-indented coastline to the peaks of the Twelve Bens rising from the peat marshes of the Connemara National Park to the serene beauty of Clifden, the capital of the Connemara.

Submitted by John Kumm www.onlinetravelconsultant.com

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My recent articles have been discussing the towns, history, and bird-life of the Camargue region of south-eastern France.

Horses of the CamargueWe cannot leave this most interesting region of the world without the chance to find out more about the horses and bulls that live in the Camargue.

The Camargue Horse is one of the oldest breeds in the world, and is closely related to prehistoric horses whose remains have been found in southern France. They are coloured dark brown or black at birth, but turn white at about 4 years of age. The Camargue is smaller than most horses, often at about 13 or 14 hands. They generally free range, rather than being stabled.

The local cowboys (called Gardians)  round up the famous black bulls from the area – where the Bull is King. The Bull is celebrated in many festivals throughout the year. But don’t worry, the bull is not harmed in Languedoc Bull fights.

The Camargue bull is also smaller than many other species, and is very well regarded for the quality and flavour of its meat.

Submitted by John Kumm www.onlinetravelconsultant.com

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The Camargue is located south of Arles, France, just inland at the mouth of the River Rhône.

Map of the CamargueWith an area of over 930 km² (360 sq. miles), the Camargue is western Europe’s largest river delta. It is a vast plain comprising large salt water lagoons, and is cut off from the sea by sandbars. The Camargue is encircled by reed-covered marshes.

Roughly a third of the Camargue is made up of lakes and marshlands. The central area has been protected as a regional park since 1927, in recognition of its great importance as a haven for wild birds. It is now officially recognised as the Parc Régional de Camargue.

The Camargue is home to more than 400 species of birds, with the salt water lagoons providing one of the few European habitats for the greater flamingo.

The marshes are also a prime habitat for many species of insects, notably (and notoriously) some of the most ferocious mosquitos to be found anywhere in France.

The vegetation in this region of the Camargue is specially adapted to cope with the saline conditions. Sea lavender and glasswort flourish along with tamarisks and reeds.

A roadside museum provides background on flora, fauna, and the history of the area.

You will pass through the outskirts of the Camargue as you travel south from Arles towards Saintes Maries de la Mer.

Submitted by John Kumm www.onlinetravelconsultant.com

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May
08

The Black Madonna

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Yesterday I wrote about Stes Maries de la Mer, located just south of Arles in the Provence region of France.

Today I am providing further detail about the stories of Saint Sarah. There are many differing versions of her background, and I will bring some of them to you here.

Saint Sarah, the Black Madonna

The most common tale is that Sarah was the servant of Mary Jacobé, Jesus’ aunt, and Mary Salomé, mother of the apostles John and James, who, along with Mary Magdalene, Lazarus and various other New Testament characters, are said to have been driven out of Palestine by the Jews and put on a boat with neither sails nor oars.

The boat apparently drifted to an island in the mouth of the Rhône, where the Egyptian god Ra was worshipped. This is the site of the current Stes Marie de la Mer. Here Mary Jacobé, Mary Salomé and Sarah, who was herself Egyptian, settled to carry out conversion work, while the others headed off for other parts of Provence.

One Camargue tradition has it that when the other travelers were in the boat, they left Sarah behind. She cried out and one of the Marys threw her coat onto the water. Sara stepped onto the coat and it bore her to the boat.

Another tradition, ascribed to by the local gypsy tradition says that Sara was a Gitane, (some say ‘Egyptian’) woman living on the banks of the Provençal River and that she rescued the Saintes-Maries from a storm at sea.

Other stories that have been proposed are

  • that Sara was an Egyptian, the abbess of a large convent in Libya who accompanied the three Marys to France when they fled from the Holy Land after the Crucifixion
  • that Sara was a prominent figure among a group of Persian martyrs and that she, with the two Maries and Martha, arrived in Gaul by ship
  • there is also an 11th century apocryphal text that presents Sara discovering, with Martha and the two Marys, the empty tomb of Jesus, and leaving to announce with the Apostles the news of the Resurrection of the Christ.

Whatever her mysterious history, today a cult of St. Sara persists. Although she was never conferred sainthood by the Catholic Church, the legend of Saint Sara was adopted by the local chapel of Saintes-Maries de la Mer.

Submitted by John Kumm www.onlinetravelconsultant.com

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Stes. Maries de la Mer is a settlement with a population of some 2500 which is situated on the French Mediterranean coast in the Heart of Camargue’s Parc Naturel (nature park).

On a shop door at Stes. MariesWe chanced upon this amazing place during a recent trip through the Provence region of France, and were fascinated by the contrasts and rich history of the region.

It wouldn’t be difficult to imagine yourself in a Californian beachfront village when traversing many of the laneways and streets of Stes Maries, such is the color, adobe clad buildings and range of people and activities abounding.

Yet no Californian village is able to boast a genuine fortified Romanesque Church and one of the world’s wildest and richest ornithological parks.

Stes. Maries is especially famous for its oldest tradition which consists of being the meeting place for the gypsy people which occurs each May. Gypsy families from around the world make their way to Stes Maries-de-la-Mer for Baptisms, family reunions, and other events. The Romanesque church contains the crypt of Ste. Sarah, the patron saint of gypsies, and the annual festival celebrates this religious linkage, with Romanies gathering to ask favours of their icon.

The rich folklore and music of this nomadic group is evident throughout the city, and attracts many visitors throughout the year.

This place also features prominently in “The Da Vinci Code”, in which the author, Dan Brown suggests that Sarah was in fact the daughter of Jesus and Mary Magdelaine. Sara is an historical mystery with many legends offering to solve the story of her origin.

The Romanesque ChurchAccording to a local legend, when the Marys and Lazarus were sent out to sea in a small boat during the persecution of Christians by the Jews, they left Sarah behind. She cried out and one of the Mary’s threw her coat onto the water. Sara stepped onto the coat and it bore her to the boat. They landed safely on the shore at the present Stes. Maries-de-la-Mer.

Although she was never conferred sainthood by the Catholic Church, the legend of Sara has been adopted by the local chapel of Saintes-Maries de la Mer.

The region has many ranches in the region where both bulls and horses are bred. These ranches welcome visitors and in some cases offer you a place to stay as well. This is an excellent way to get to know the famous Camargue cowboys and their livestock.

You should definitely visit this part of the world if you get a chance.

Submitted by John Kumm www.onlinetravelconsultant.com

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