We had the opportunity to try out the German rail system recently, and I have to report that we had a mixed experience on German trains.

Upon arrival into Dresden on a Eurocity service out of Prague we decided to transfer to German Intercapital Express (ICE) trains for the rest of the trip to Berlin.

One of DeutschBahn's ICE Trains at a Platform
ICE Train at Platform

These ICE trains offer a whole new level of comfort and service onto the German rail system, as well as offering a smooth and quiet way to travel between major cities in minimal time.

ICE trains first entered service in 1991. They have a distinctive design and livery for which Deutsch Bahn has registered the design elements. These trainsets are very well configured internally for the comfort and convenience of passengers, and include such things as luggage storage bays in most carriages, adjustable seating, piped music to all seats and seat back video screens in many first class carriages. Many ICE trains also have wireless internet and mobile phone access enabled for those who feel unable to do without such amenities during a trip.

interior of one of the ICE Trains

ICE Train interior

Interior design is also a special feature with these trains. Colours have been chosen to offer a restful travelling environment, and lighting is subdued. Indeed in some carriages the interior is quite similar to that of an aircraft (although more comfortable and much quieter).

Travel on ICE trains is very pleasant, although it can at times be difficult to take photographs out of the side windows because everything is whooshing past so quickly that many objects appear blurred when the photo is examined (one of the joys of having digital cameras available nowadays).

We took one ICE service from Dresden to Leipzig and another service from Leipzig into Berlin Hauptbahnhof. We do enjoy traveling on these trains!

As is always expected with Deutsch Bahn services, departure and arrival times were exactly on time (indeed you can usually set your watch based on arrivals and departures of trains in Germany.

On this part of our journey, everything operated with typical German precision.

However, on our final day in Germany, their trains let us down.

We had decided to book on a Deutsch Bahn City Night Line service from Berlin to Heidelberg. Because we wanted the opportunity to compare this sleeper service with that offered on the Elipsos trains that operate between Spain, France and Italy we booked a similar class of travel. We selected a first class sleeper with shower facilities and were hoping that the trip would provide an enjoyable conclusion to our travel adventures on trains in Germany.

Unfortunately this was not to be!

We waited on the platform at Berlin Hauptbahnhof for the train to arrive at the station … and waited, while many other trains arrived and departed on other platforms.

Double Decker Carriage on CNL trains

City Night Line Double Decker Carriage

The train eventually rolled in nearly 30 minutes behind schedule. We then went to our allotted carriage and boarded (along with many many other passengers). Once on board, we worked our way gradually along the passageway to find our cabin. Unfortunately, the nominated cabin number couldn’t be found.

At this stage, we didn’t understand what was happening, and had to wait in a queue to speak with the conductor. We were simply told that our cabin number had changed, and were shown to a lower level cabin (it was a double decker carriage). Upon climbing down, we were very surprised to see that we were obviously in a second class cabin, with no shower, no toilet, and practically no room. This certainly wasn’t what we had ordered and paid for.

Eventually we managed to locate the conductor again, and were told that due to an equipment fault, the carriage had been changed at the last moment, and because the train was full, we had no other alternative. We had been given the use of two adjacent 2nd class cabins, so that we could sit in one and sleep in the other.

With a grumpy disposition but little other option, we had to make the most of the situation. We were aware that the train was about half an hour behind time, but hoped that this could be made up during the trip. However, the train again stopped about 45 minutes out of Berlin, and stood stationary for another half hour or so.

With the train now running an hour late, we now realised that it would be impossible for us to make our connection to another train in Heidelberg. This looked as though it would prevent us from boarding our KD Rhine cruise down the Rhine River from Mainz.

We ended up having to leave our City Night Line train at Mannheim station at about 5:30 in the morning, and attempt to find other trains to get us to Mainz.

The service we had hoped to catch was cancelled, and we needed to look for options on other trains. We eventually boarded an ICE train heading to Frankfurt Airport, reasoning that this station was on a main line down the Rhine River, and that it may be simpler to catch trains from here to Mainz.

After following the signage and asking a Deutsch Bahn attendant how to find the platform for connecting trains, we duly dragged our luggage from platform 2 down to platform 7, arriving about 15 minutes before the train to Mainz was due.

Surely our trials and tribulations with Deutsch Bahn were now over.

However, the arrival time came and went, with no trains. We later found out that the trains had been diverted to another platform, but without any platform announcement. The next train wasn’t due for another 30 minutes, and we would miss the boat.

Eventually, after hauling our belongings back up to platform 2, we were able to find another service that was able to get us to Mainz, but with only 15 minutes to spare before the scheduled departure of our boat.

I have to report that this sequence of events hasn’t resulted in our being such staunch supporters of the German railway system.

I suppose it might be correct to report that the system works like clockwork for most of the time, but that when things begin to go wrong, the performance of the system really starts to fall over very badly.

Certainly, I couldn’t recommend that any of our readers consider travelling on any night trains in Germany given our experience with this service.

Categories : Rail, Vacations
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OBB RailJet Train At Budapest Station

OBB RailJet Train At Budapest Station

Austria’s Railjet train

We decided to experience the Railjet service between Budapest and Vienna so that we could experience how this high speed service compares in ride and service quality with that offered by other rail providers.
The OBB Railjet train is defined by the Austrian Railway System Provider OBB to stand for speed, comfort, design, top modern equipment and a completely new service concept.
It is interesting to note that due to the fact that much of the travel of the railjet train service is in neighboring countries, the railjet concept doesn’t rely upon the inclusion the locomotive as a part of the overall design concept.
Whilst the Thalys, ICE and Eurostar trains have a design that integrates the locomotive tightly into the overall design of the overall train profile, our trip from Budapest to Vienna had a Hungarian locomotive attached to the Railjet carriages in a more conventional configuration.
Once the train reached the Austrian border, one of the Railjet locomotives replaced the Hungarian engine, and so the train arrived into Vienna looking much more streamlined than it did when it left Budapest.
We were extremely impressed with the first class layout and configuration of the Railjet carriage. The interior of the train was subtly colored, and the quality of the seats and configuration of tables between facing pairs of seats was well appreciated.
The only thing that we did notice was that as a part of the exterior design elements of this train, the word “Railjet” is emblazoned across the sided of the carriages, and as a result, some seats had window views somewhat obstructed by the lettering attached to the outside of the train.
Railjet is different to many other services across Europe in that it offers 3 grades of train travel, Economy, First and Premium.
Premium class is a different level of train travel  service and features comfortable leather armchairs with foot rests, arranged into semi-partitioned compartments containing 2, 3 or 4 seats each.
The premium class fare, which costs 25 euros more than First Class, includes snacks and soft drinks.
We travelled in first class, however, since the sector was only about about 3 hours, and there was no need to upgrade to the premium level.
Even in first class, the seating was extremely comfortable, a luggage storage space was also provided, resulting in a much less congested passenger space and we were also impressed with the information screen at the end of each section of the train carriage.
This screen updated regularly with a map of the route travelled, showing the current position of the train, information about the stations on the route, including major transfer options, and a speedometer that indicated how fast we were travelling at an time. Although we didn’t exceed 160 km/h during our trip, I understand that speeds of 200 km/h are not uncommon on some of the lines.
We were also well looked after by a train attendant who was able to provide advice and offer any assistance we needed.
We really enjoyed our travel on Railjet, and would strongly recommend it to anybody looking to travel by rail in or out of Austria.
Once we arrived into Vienna (at Meidling station), we needed to transfer to Vienna’s Ostbahn station for our rail journey north to Bratislava.
This required 2 train changes.
At Meidling, we needed to find our way to another platform, and managed to make our connection by the skin of our teeth. In fact, we believe that the conductor may have held up the departure of the S-Bahn train by 30 seconds to allow us on board.
A couple of stops later we had arrived at the Ostbahn S-Bahn station (an underground station). From here, we needed to locate a lift to bring both us and our luggage up to street level.
At the present time, Vienna’s rail system is in a major state of change. The task of replacing a number of stations with a central Vienna Railway Station is underway. This project has a time frame of some 2.5 years. As a result of these changes, most of the old Ostbahn railway station has now been demolished to make way for the new lines and structure that will eventually steer rail traffic from the south, east and west of Vienna into a central point.
Of course, this means that the task of traveling from on line to another is not easy at present.
As a result, we needed to lug our belongings across several streets and a bus station towards the only street level component of the original Ostbahn infrastructure.
We arrived at our regional express train to Bratislava again with only seconds to spare (about 60 seconds in this case).
The REX train from Vienna Sudbahnhof (Ostbahn) to Bratislava did not seem to be quite the level of express that we had anticipated. I think that I counted some 10 stations that we stopped at along the 60 km route.
One of the things that anybody traveling on a Eurail Pass should be aware of is that Slovakia has not yet joined up with the Eurail system. As a result, your Eurail Pass will not cover any rail trips in Slovakia itself.
Once we traveled across the border, we were asked to purchase a ticket to cover our journey to Bratislava. For the two of us, this ticket cost just 4.20 euros. However, had we elected to travel on a more direct service form Budapest to Bratislava (and miss the trip on the Railjet train), then the cost from the border would have been something like 30 euros each.
We traveled in that section of the last carriage that is normally reserved for bicycles, wheelchairs and luggage storage, and therefore had little chance to enjoy such comforts that the REX train may have had on offer – although from what we were able to see, these were precious little.

All in all, the contrast between the luxury of the OBB Railjet and the austerity of the REX train service to Bratislava was quite noticeable.

Categories : Destinations, Rail, Vacations
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Budapest's Parliament Buildings

Budapest's Parliament Buildings

We have just finished a 2-day stay in Budapest, the capital of Hungary.

We have enjoyed great weather in all of our destinations in Europe so far, but have to say that this morning’s weather in Budapest looks a little threatening, with some showers forecast for later today.

At this stage, we’ll just have to see how much longer our luck holds out in terms of near perfect spring weather.

Upon our arrival into Budapest (via Keleti Station) we were once again confronted by a scary taxi ride. This time, the driver had to take us across the Danube River from Pest to Buda.

The aggressive driving shown by this driver made me very happy that we hadn’t decided to rent a vehicle during this part of the trip, since the chances of having to return the vehicle and try to explain body damage (to the vehicle or to us) would have been quite high.

Whilst we eventually arrived at the correct destination, the driver’s need to search for locations on his vehicle mounted GPS device whilst driving through the heavy traffic streams around Budapest made us doubt this on several occasions.

Our accommodations were at the amazing Buda Hill Apartments, a short walking distance from the Buda Castle and close to the Mamut (Mammoth) shopping center and to Muskova Metro Station.

The building is absolutely amazing, with a mix of the traditional curves and domes of the Byzantine style with parallel elements which fit much more within the modernist architectural outlooks. This makes it a definite Budapest landmark.

The result is a building with vast numbers of nooks and crannies, where each apartment will have a different outlook and where relatively few spaces are of the simple rectangular shape that we tend to take for granted.

We chose this particular location because it met our basic requirements for our accommodation units: complimentary wireless internet, good locations for access to tourism sites and shopping facilities and either breakfast included or self contained accommodation.

Overall, we enjoyed Buda Hill Apartments, although the washing machine almost had the better of us at first. The control symbols were far from obvious, and it turned out that under some circumstances the bowl would never actually empty, and the washing cycle would then continue for ever (or until we became sick of this and went to find a copy of a user’s guide from reception.

One odd thing that we observed during our stay in Budapest was that reception was only open from 8:00 am to 8:00 pm, and that the staffing during these times consisted of one receptionist accompanied by a security guard who tended to pass away the time by watching a small television receiver.

Budapest is well served by public transport, with trains, trams, trolley buses and an underground metro service that is notable in being the first underground railway on the continent.

The contrast between different modes of transport in Budapest is quite marked, from the carriages in the metro, that seem to remain relatively unchanged in well over half a century to the ultra-modern 6 section trams that seem more like small trains than trams.

The City of Budapest is unique in a number of ways:

  • it claims to have Europe’s largest parliament
  • Europe’s first underground railway system
  • the continent’s largest functioning synagogue
  • still operating Turkish baths – 12 medicinal baths, 100 thermal springs

Budapest also boasts an incredibly diverse range of special buildings and unique architectural styles.

Wandering around Budapest, you’ll be able to find the remains of Roman fortresses and buildings, gothic and baroque buildings, a wide range of Art Nouveau styles and some emerging examples of contemporary architecture.

Categories : Destinations, Rail, Vacations
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Even seasoned train travelers can occasionally find a surprise during a trip!

We boarded the 1st class train compartment of our service from Serbia into Hungary expecting a pleasant but unexciting journey of some 9 hours between one capital city and the next.

We had believed that the days of mystery and excitement in train travel were now behind us and remained in the era of Agatha Christie and Hercule Poirot. How wrong we were!

The first half of the journey went pretty smoothly.

En route we were interested in the sudden transitions between examples of real slum development poverty and prosperous commercial developments and residential neighborhoods, often just on opposite sides of the train track.

We then moved on to the flat agricultural lands beyond the cities in northern Serbia, and often could see nothing but fields, some freshly ploughed and others with crops breaking through the surface.

We also noted a high number of eagle nests in trees, many pheasants enjoying the delights of spring in the ground below and hares the size of dogs doing their thing as well.

However, once we arrived at the border with Hungary, things became more interesting.

The train stopped at the border station so that the Serbian authorities could do a final passport check before passing the train and its passengers on to the Hungarians.

The other passengers had left the train at this time, and we were alone in the carriage (or so we thought).

Suddenly our musings were interrupted by a gentleman who came up to us and asked whether we were travelling into Hungary. Although he didn’t look like a train company or government official, we nevertheless agreed that this was what we were doing.

Shortly afterward, two well dressed ladies boarded the train carriage, moved forward to the electrical control panel at the end of the carriage, and to our surprise opened the panel and manipulated some switchgear.

Ceiling panels in first class train carriage

Ceiling panels in first class carriage

Next, the original man and another were in the rear section of the 1st class train compartment working with electric screwdrivers to remove a number of ceiling panels. Once these were off, something was stuffed into the spaces revealed, and the panels were then replaced.

Finally another woman of the sort you wouldn’t like to come across on a dark night walked up to the from of our carriage and opened another panel to place an item wrapped in newspaper into the compartment revealed.

The original gentleman then came back, indicating to us that we should remain silent about anything we had seen.

The well dressed women then took some seats well apart from us and from each other, whilst the others moved down the train into 2nd class.

Eventually the train moved forward across the Hungarian border and stopped again. A number of Hungarian officials boarded the train, checking passports, whilst another railway person completed a final ticket check.

Following a further extended delay (about 90 minutes) the train continued its journey.

Whilst en route, we discovered that the group in 2nd class had returned back into our train carriage. We then saw one of the men climb onto the luggage racks and lie along them. The electric screwdriver was again put into action, so that the goods could be removed from their hiding place. Once this task was completed, the goods were transferred into bags, and the electrical compartment was once again accessed.

The scary woman returned to the front compartment to remove her package (which to our fevered imagination had about the shape and weight of a handgun), and return to the others.

At the next stop of our train, the scary woman left the train carrying (or maybe dragging) the two bags across the tracks to a parked car where another lady was waiting. When last seen, the parked car together with 2 women on board left the area, and the train continued on its way towards Budapest.

Whilst we have no idea just what we were witnessing, the scenes brought back memories of some of the episodes of a television show set in France during the time of Nazi occupation called “ ‘Allo ‘Allo”.

The blatancy of what was most probably some form of smuggling was to us quite astonishing (but maybe this sort of thing is quite common at least in this part of the world).

Needless to say, our attention to the countryside through which we were traveling was less acute than on the earlier parts of the train journey.

If you’re ever faced with something like this on a train journey, just stay calm and chill out!

 

Categories : Odd Spots, Rail, Security
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Belgrade - night view

Belgrade - night view - courtesy awams.com

The prehistory of the region dates back to some 6000 years B.C., when Starcevo culture resulted in an early farming settlement across the river from the present site of Belgrade.

Following many changes in the make-up of the region and its inhabitants, the region occupied by the Kalamegdan Gardens become the north western outpost of the Eastern Roman Empire in about 400 A.D.

The region now known as Serbia has changed hands so many times in the intervening 1600 years or so that it is almost impossible to keep up with who has been in control at any given time.

Since the beginning of the second world war, Belgrade has been bombed by the Germans, the Americans and NATO. Following WW2, Belgrade was liberated from the Nazis by the Soviet Red Army, and the installation of President Tito as the ruler of Yugoslavia saw the beginning of many years of socialist rule in the region, only terminated with the overthrow of Slobodan Milosevic in 2000.

As a result of the many upheavals in its recent history, Belgrade has found itself with a significant task ahead of itself when it comes to moving itself, its inhabitants and its reputation into the world of tourism and freedom of travel.

Many have stated that in the past, Serbia has suffered from something of an image problem, and whilst Milosevic and his cohorts are no longer in the picture, many Serbs will still believe that the outside world considers them to be the “scourge of the Balkans”.

However, this attitude has changed somewhat over the intervening years, and many parts of Serbia including Belgrade (or Beograd as it has been traditionally known), have begun to see that it to everybody’s advantage to invite foreigners into their environment.

However, after some 36 hours spent doing our best to do the tourist thing in Belgrade, we have to admit a little frustration.

We’ve really enjoyed those things that we have managed to experience, but nevertheless have found ourselves working very hard indeed to find out how to locate most of the experiences that Belgrade has on offer.

We arrived at our accommodation in the evening, and after leaving our belongings, decided to spend some time exploring the region around the hotel (Stari Grad). We wandered in a northerly direction up Balkanska towards Terasije, considered to be the central square of Beograd.

A prime example of the problem in following up on tourism support is exemplified by the Belgrade website: http://beograd.rs – when we visit this site and select “Discover Belgrade/Tourism” we discover 4 links, none of which are operational.

We followed this up by visiting the Tourist Organization Of Belgrade site: http://tob.rs . This site was able to tell us something about sightseeing in Belgrade, but very little of which was of much use. For example, the city tour double decker buses only operate from May to October – our visit was in late April. Similarly most walking tours of the city only run on one or two days a week, and in many cases only on one day per month.

There is a free tram service that allows the visitor to discover more about the city and what it has to offer, but it has to be pre-booked, and only operates on Fridays and Saturdays (we were there on a Thursday).

When we visited a tourist information center to find out more, we were offered a map of the city, but found that this was not of the highest accuracy, nor did it incorporate public transport information and street information on a single map.

As a result, we bumbled our way around those parts of Belgrade that we could reach, and enjoyed those that we were able to find.

We are both of the very strong belief that what is sorely needed in Belgrade is for some authority to appoint an outside person or body to spend some time in the city, recommend those things that would combine to bring a brand new tourist culture to the city, and to have sufficient pull to convince groups such as the public transport authorities that the introduction of limited time multi- sector ticketing arrangements combined with informative information services (both online and on paper) would provide a whole new source of ticketing revenue to their systems.

Whilst we have enjoyed our time in Belgrade, we consider that the amount of work required in order to get the most out of the city is too much for a short stay.

We’d love to see the result should some group be capable of instilling a more effective tourism oriented culture into Belgrade and indeed all of Serbia.

Our recommendation for those planning to visit this city as an independent traveler is to undertake all of the needed research before you arrive, so that you are not left frustrated after your arrival.

 

 

Categories : Destinations, Rail, Vacations
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The Three Bridges In Ljubljana

The Three Bridges In Ljubljana

The city of Ljubljana (pronounced as Lee-oob-lee-ana) is the capital of Slovenia, and is a mid-sized city with a population of a little over a quarter of a million people.

Ljubljana promotes itself both internationally and locally as the “friendly city” – this promotion takes many facets – people friendly, environmentally friendly, aged-friendly, bicycle friendly and also visitor friendly.

I need to report that our first impressions of this city were unfortunately anything but friendly. Upon arrival at Ljubljana Railway Station, we were dragging our luggage towards the nearest elevator to reach street level and find a taxi. We were confronted on 2 separate occasions by a dirty looking individual holding a magazine in our direction and requesting payment.

In the early stages, we simply smiled and declined, and thought that this was the end of the matter. This person however decided to run up the stairs while we were in the elevator, and again approached us, this time quite aggressively.

Eventually, Barbara shouted at him that we wished him to leave our space (by this time, he was right in our face and acting quite aggressively) his response was literally screamed out, and we can only assume that the expletives issued in the Slovenian language were more then explicit in their meaning.

As it turns out, another Slovenian couple heard the interchange, and approached us with deep apologies for the way we had been treated and for what this individual had said about Barbara.

As a result, we were in a somewhat shaken mood by the time that we attempted to hire a taxi just to end up being in the center of a dispute amongst two drivers about just who was entitled to drive us to our destination.

Believe me, by the time that we arrived to our hotel to check in, we were hoping that our early conceptions of Ljubljana as a great place to visit would be vindicated.

Luckily, we have indeed enjoyed our full day in the city, and can see that Ljubljana is able to make legitimate claims to its friendliness.

We stayed at the Birokrat Apart Hotel at Dunajaska 191. This hotel was very well located for anyone coming to Ljubljana by car, as it is only a couple of blocks from the main auto route. However, we needed to make use of a taxi to and from the railway station.

We found that the hotel was quite a pleasant place to stay, with good sized living quarters, a kitchenette and complimentary wireless internet connection. This has in fact been one of the most important factors concerning our choice of accommodation during our trip, since we have needed the opportunity to keep up with our travel diary on a daily basis.

From our hotel, the bus service into Ljubljana was excellent. The cost of the trip was 80 euro cents, and this fare was valid for any interchanges during the following 90 minutes. The trip into the city took less than 15 minutes.

We spent time experiencing the old town area of Ljubljana, particularly in the region know as the “three bridges”. This was the traditional meeting place for local citizens, and is still a very useful reference point for tourists planning to split up and do different things while walking around the town.

From this area, you can cat you eye upward to find the Ljubljana Castle, perched high on a hill and overlooking the city. It is possible to reach this by funicular railway or on foot. From here, you can climb the tower for a fantastic view over the buildings, plazas and streets that make up this city.

We however spent our time investigating the markets and interesting buildings that make up the old town. These range from the Academia Philarmonicorum through the Roman Catholic Cathedral (Sv. Nikolaja) and Mestna Hiša (Town Hall). We also indulged our taste buds in the indoor and outdoor markets that dominate this part of the old town.

All in all, we enjoyed our time in Ljubljana, but would ideally have allowed ourselves somewhat longer to explore this country of Slovenia in more detail.

 

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Interior of Villach Hauptbahnhof

Interior of Villach Hauptbahnhof

We were quite astonished with the contrast between the railway terminal building, with an impressive combination of glass, stainless steel and an extremely modern and up to date image.

However, the train that we have boarded to take us across the border into Slovenia and deliver us to Ljubljana seems to date back to the 1940s or 1950s.

Some attempts have been made to bring the interior slightly more up to date, however this has taken the train from the 50s to the 70s. Fluorescent light fittings, leatherette headrests and light oak coloured paneling has lightened the compartments and passageways somewhat.

It was also impressive to see that each individual compartment of 6 seats has a temperature control and audio level control for the comfort of passengers. However, we soon discovered that these were simply left for show, and didn’t appear to be connected to anything.

Our 2nd class compartment to Ljubljana

Our 2nd class compartment to Ljubljana (seat 61 on the left)

We elected to travel in second class (non-reserved seating) for this train, which runs as a night service from Villach in Austria to Belgrade in Serbia, crossing three countries on the way.

We succeeded in grabbing a spot in Seat 61, following on from advice provided by “The Man In Seat 61”, Mark Smith.

I have to say that seat 61 on this train, despite being in the middle of the carriage, isn’t quite ideal. Instead of being a window seat, this seat 61 is an aisle seat, adjacent to the communications walkway.

However, we have the compartment to ourselves, and the trip is quite pleasant. During the early stage of the journey, we managed to enjoy some quite spectacular alpine scenery as the train travels south east towards the border with Slovenia.

 

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Tren Italia train service 9715

Tren Italia train service 9715

Train 9715 is an express service to Venezia – the trip lasts about 2 hours.

First class reserved seating is excellent on this train, with facing seats, power for computers, chargers, etc.

We happen to be in seats 91 and 92, rather than in seat 61. Although this means that we’re at one end of the carriage, this has offered us a chance to store our luggage behind the seat, rather than needing to heft it up onto the overhead racks.

This train is clean, so the windows do offer a clear view out, and should be able to get some photographs en route.

We’ve noted that announcements are made in both Italian and English – so we have some idea of what is going on.

It’s interesting to note the number of Italian flags hanging from many of the flats and other accommodation units as we pass through the suburban regions of Torino and Milan. The people who live here are obviously very proud of their heritage.

The land around Milan seems very flat. We noticed on the way into Milan a large number of what looked a little like rice paddies, full of water. It would be interesting to find out what the purpose of these may be.

As we pass through the surrounding agricultural areas, we can recognise canola amongst the crops, a number of market gardens with hot houses and quite a significant amount of land let to fallow, and others with new crops just breaking through the surface of the soil with summer approaching.

Travelling by rail is certainly an improvement upon driving yourself around Europe – you can let somebody else get you to your destination on time and in a much more relaxed state.

The express train services are also much faster than private car, and you can often enjoy views that wouldn’t be available when travelling along the major roadways.

A nice touch has been the opportunity to enjoy a complimentary drink and snack as a part of the first class service. We have each enjoyed a glass of Berlucchi Vintage 2004 sparkling wine. Try doing that while you’re driving.

After a brief stop at Brescia, the route ran through a substantial area that combined light industrial activity with some market gardening.

Further along, we began to see many vineyards, and were lucky enough to glimpse Lake Garda in the distance. This brought back memories of a previous trip when we spent a week or so at Valpolicella just north of Verona, enjoying some local wine and and visiting Lake Garda during our stay.

Following a stop at Verona, the train is travelling towards Padua, and eventually stopping at Venezia, St Lucia. We alight at Venezia Mestre however in preparation for the next leg of our tour.

This trip is of course a reminder of many of Shakespeare’s classics, including Romeo And Juliet, The Merchant Of Venice and Two Gentlemen Of Verona.

 

Categories : Destinations, Rail, Vacations
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Elipsos dining carriage

The dining carriage aboard the Elipsos Salvador Dali Express

Unfortunately, our carriage was quite old, and the outside of the train could have done with a clean to enable a better view through the windows of both our cabin and of the dining carriage.

We managed to get some sleep on the Elipsos night train from Barcelona to Milan, but the quality of the sleep wasn’t what we had hoped for.

Our Gran Classe cabin was directly over the wheels of our carriage, and we were therefore aware of almost every movement in the train as it ran along the tracks. Although this did eventually manage to lull us to sleep, we then awoke every time the train came to as halt, and then needed to be “lulled” all over again.

With the Gran Classe booking, we were entitled to a cabin with private WC and shower facilities, as well as gourmet dinner with wines and a 5 star breakfast.

Whilst the gourmet dinner was quite pleasant and did offer a welcoming glass of champagne and a choice of wines with the meal, my impression was that the “5 star breakfast” left a little to be desired. A plate containing some fruit, a slice of almost cold toast and mostly inedible chocolate pastry was laid out in front of us, with a glass of orange juice and the opportunity for a cup of tea (black) or coffee (white or black).

We were left wondering just what was meant by the term “5 star” and just what a “4 star” breakfast would have included.

My overall impression of the Elipsos rail product is less than totally favourable, and we will be interested in comparing this service with that offered by Deutsch Bahn on a train with similar configuration on our second last night in Europe. The DB train is considerably lower in price, so time will tell.

In terms of costings, our 15 day global Eurail pass cost us $900 for a group saver 1st class pass for the two of us. The additional cost for the Gran Classe cabin on the Elipsos train was $320 for a passholder reservation.

Overall however, the concept of using a night train to travel from city centre to city centre overnight remains a good one. Not only do you find that your accommodation is covered, you also have the benefit of enjoying 2 meals and travelling a considerable distance whilst you are sleeping.

If you include all of these aspects together, then the cost of the night train service can be seen in a different light.

Later today, our journey continues with a rail trip from Milan to Mestre, a coach sector from Mestre to Villach in Austria and a final rail sector from Villach into Ljubljana. We’re due to arrive in Ljubljana at about 9:06 pm.

It will be interesting to see how efficient the performance of the various rail systems compares during this very busy day for us.

 

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Elipsos Trenhotel carriages

Elipsos Trenhotel carriages

I’m writing this story aboard the Salvador Dali Tren Hotel en route between Barcelona Estacio de Franca station and Milano.

We decided that no European rail vacation would be complete without the opportunity to experience what is allegedly the best that the European rail system has on offer.

The Elipsos Gran Classe cabin includes a private bathroom, shower, additional services and facilities (including a morning paper that you can read – if you are able). The better options are that you can also enjoy a gourmet dinner and a 5 star breakfast.

The gourmet dinner was interesting – we went in early, and discovered that the advice from our conductor to get in for dinner early was quite good.

The dining room was amazing – with settings for about 36 people. Because we were the first in a seat, we had the advantage of putting in the first orders for dinner. As the others began to arrive, our waiter became increasingly flustered, and the delay between contacts with the waiting staff increased dramatically. However, from our perspective, the dinner was very enjoyable, with three courses, champagne to start and a choice of wines to accompany starters, main courses and dessert.

We were however somewhat surprised to discover that a selection of cheeses was exactly as described, with no choice of greens or crackers to accompany them.

We’re currently sitting on a station straddling the Spain and France border, probably waiting for the French customs guys to determine that everybody aboard the train is a fit and proper person to enter the Republic of France. We’ll probably have to endure the same exercise at the border with Italy, but hopefully we’ll all be asleep when this happens.

Whilst we decided to pre-pay for accommodation upon the Elipsos Gran Classe suite, we are at the moment feeling a bit concerned about whether the amount of gear that we are carrying is going to easily fit on board future trains during our trips through the Eastern Bloc countries of Europe.

We’ll sign off now, and attempt to enjoy a pleasant night of sleep on the Salvador Dali Express where we can wake up in Milano, and consider the trip through France to be behind us.

Keep an eye out for the next instalment.

 

Categories : Rail, Vacations
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