Slovenian Railway Carriages

Slovenian Railway Carriages

We are now on board a train from Ljubljana to Beograd (Belgrade).

This is an 9 hour sector, and we had hoped that the train may have been somewhat better than that provided for the last sector, from Villach to Ljubljana – alas, this was not to be!

The trip south from Ljubljana to the border with Croatia was very pleasant.

As we moved down from the mountainous regions of central Slovenia towards the southern part of the country, the scenery changed, although we followed the path of a rived for much of the way.

This river altered during our trip from being a very fast flowing stream with many rapids (presumably much of the water flowing based on ongoing snow melt from the alpine parts), to a much more sedate river wandering slowly (and no doubt more deeply) through some of the towns.

We have just traversed the border between Slovenia and Croatia, and are now reminded about what border crossings were like in the days before the European Union came into being.

A stop of some 25 minutes while the locomotive was changed was followed by the boarding of the train by three policemen (with handguns) demanding to see and stamp our passports, and another railway official (with very ornate gold braided cap) who requested our tickets once again (and added his on notation onto the ticket).

The train then proceeded another kilometre or so, at which time another group of policemen (in a different uniform) entered the train and again required that passports be supplied, and again stamped).

Following this, we have been allowed to proceed into Croatia, and continue our journey.

All we can now do is to wait until we move from Croatia into Serbia, and see if the performance is repeated once again.

This has reminded us of the need to collect some Serbian currency before we attempt to hire a taxi for a trip to the hotel.

The trip down into Croatia has been less scenic to date. We are approaching Zagreb, and have noted that the amount of graffiti on buildings, rail wagons, etc has been quite marked.

The area surrounding Zagreb is not what we would call scintillating. The buildings surrounding the rail track do seem to still have the look of a region that hasn’t progressed a very long way from its totalitarian past.

As we have moved further south from Zagreb, we’ve moved from the industrial to a much more agricultural zone, with areas of both braod acre and more intensive cultivation. There has been a significant amount of canola, some corn, market gardens with strawberries, although the soil doesn’t serem as fertile as we noticed further north.

We’ve had yet another passport check – this time at a place called Sid.

That may have been the nearest station between Croatia and Serbia, but we’re yet to discover if this is the case. The weather has been very kind for this time of the year, with blue skies, reasonably warm temperatures and no sign of rain.

Of the villages and towns we have passed through so far, there doesn’t appear to be a great evidence of wealth amongst the populations. Most houses are either single story or very basic double story structures. The motor vehicles have for the most part been significantly older than we noticed in Ljubljana, and the public buildings have not been in any way ornate.

The transfer from Croatia into Serbia has now taken place, and the result has been a further check and stamping of passports at a station on the border.

We did come across a most enterprising individual who, realising that the trip is of some 9 hours duration without the opportunity to seek any sort of refreshment, arranges to climb aboard and to offer beer and cold mineral water to passengers. Although the asking price was high, the cold drinks were well received, and we were happy to pay the asking price. This also offered us a way of converting some Euros into the local Serbian currency.

We are on our third locomotive and train crew, but unfortunately, the carriages have remained the same for the whole trip.

 

 

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The Three Bridges In Ljubljana

The Three Bridges In Ljubljana

The city of Ljubljana (pronounced as Lee-oob-lee-ana) is the capital of Slovenia, and is a mid-sized city with a population of a little over a quarter of a million people.

Ljubljana promotes itself both internationally and locally as the “friendly city” – this promotion takes many facets – people friendly, environmentally friendly, aged-friendly, bicycle friendly and also visitor friendly.

I need to report that our first impressions of this city were unfortunately anything but friendly. Upon arrival at Ljubljana Railway Station, we were dragging our luggage towards the nearest elevator to reach street level and find a taxi. We were confronted on 2 separate occasions by a dirty looking individual holding a magazine in our direction and requesting payment.

In the early stages, we simply smiled and declined, and thought that this was the end of the matter. This person however decided to run up the stairs while we were in the elevator, and again approached us, this time quite aggressively.

Eventually, Barbara shouted at him that we wished him to leave our space (by this time, he was right in our face and acting quite aggressively) his response was literally screamed out, and we can only assume that the expletives issued in the Slovenian language were more then explicit in their meaning.

As it turns out, another Slovenian couple heard the interchange, and approached us with deep apologies for the way we had been treated and for what this individual had said about Barbara.

As a result, we were in a somewhat shaken mood by the time that we attempted to hire a taxi just to end up being in the center of a dispute amongst two drivers about just who was entitled to drive us to our destination.

Believe me, by the time that we arrived to our hotel to check in, we were hoping that our early conceptions of Ljubljana as a great place to visit would be vindicated.

Luckily, we have indeed enjoyed our full day in the city, and can see that Ljubljana is able to make legitimate claims to its friendliness.

We stayed at the Birokrat Apart Hotel at Dunajaska 191. This hotel was very well located for anyone coming to Ljubljana by car, as it is only a couple of blocks from the main auto route. However, we needed to make use of a taxi to and from the railway station.

We found that the hotel was quite a pleasant place to stay, with good sized living quarters, a kitchenette and complimentary wireless internet connection. This has in fact been one of the most important factors concerning our choice of accommodation during our trip, since we have needed the opportunity to keep up with our travel diary on a daily basis.

From our hotel, the bus service into Ljubljana was excellent. The cost of the trip was 80 euro cents, and this fare was valid for any interchanges during the following 90 minutes. The trip into the city took less than 15 minutes.

We spent time experiencing the old town area of Ljubljana, particularly in the region know as the “three bridges”. This was the traditional meeting place for local citizens, and is still a very useful reference point for tourists planning to split up and do different things while walking around the town.

From this area, you can cat you eye upward to find the Ljubljana Castle, perched high on a hill and overlooking the city. It is possible to reach this by funicular railway or on foot. From here, you can climb the tower for a fantastic view over the buildings, plazas and streets that make up this city.

We however spent our time investigating the markets and interesting buildings that make up the old town. These range from the Academia Philarmonicorum through the Roman Catholic Cathedral (Sv. Nikolaja) and Mestna Hiša (Town Hall). We also indulged our taste buds in the indoor and outdoor markets that dominate this part of the old town.

All in all, we enjoyed our time in Ljubljana, but would ideally have allowed ourselves somewhat longer to explore this country of Slovenia in more detail.

 

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Interior of Villach Hauptbahnhof

Interior of Villach Hauptbahnhof

We were quite astonished with the contrast between the railway terminal building, with an impressive combination of glass, stainless steel and an extremely modern and up to date image.

However, the train that we have boarded to take us across the border into Slovenia and deliver us to Ljubljana seems to date back to the 1940s or 1950s.

Some attempts have been made to bring the interior slightly more up to date, however this has taken the train from the 50s to the 70s. Fluorescent light fittings, leatherette headrests and light oak coloured paneling has lightened the compartments and passageways somewhat.

It was also impressive to see that each individual compartment of 6 seats has a temperature control and audio level control for the comfort of passengers. However, we soon discovered that these were simply left for show, and didn’t appear to be connected to anything.

Our 2nd class compartment to Ljubljana

Our 2nd class compartment to Ljubljana (seat 61 on the left)

We elected to travel in second class (non-reserved seating) for this train, which runs as a night service from Villach in Austria to Belgrade in Serbia, crossing three countries on the way.

We succeeded in grabbing a spot in Seat 61, following on from advice provided by “The Man In Seat 61”, Mark Smith.

I have to say that seat 61 on this train, despite being in the middle of the carriage, isn’t quite ideal. Instead of being a window seat, this seat 61 is an aisle seat, adjacent to the communications walkway.

However, we have the compartment to ourselves, and the trip is quite pleasant. During the early stage of the journey, we managed to enjoy some quite spectacular alpine scenery as the train travels south east towards the border with Slovenia.

 

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An OBB Intercity Bus

An OBB Intercity Bus

Once we managed to find out where the bus service from Mestre to Villach ran from, the rest was easy.

It was quite surprising to discover the variety of instructions that were provided to us by different information people. However, we did have a great chance to enjoy t5he warm weather in Mestre while lugging our belongings from one street to another in the vain effort to find a plaza with a bus station.

The bus trip took a little over 3 hours, and took us through Italy into the western alpine region before crossing the border into Austria and delivering us at the Villach Bahnhof.

The trip was also quite entertaining from the perspective of one of the passengers in particular who became most upset when another passenger boarded the bus at an intermediate stop and pointed out (very politely) that he was in fact sitting in her pre-booked seat. After much “harrumphing” and ill grace, he eventually moved himself from the forward looking window seat into a rear looking aisle seat, then spent much of the next hour and a half casting dirty looks and grinding his teeth in the direction of the lady who had shown the audacity to request her alloted seat on the bus.

The road trip itself was very interesting, as we moved across the alps, passing through many tunnels en route, and enjoying the sudden appearance of quaint alpine villages sandwiched amongst the mountain peaks and valleys.

There is still some snow on the peaks, and it’s easy to see how the snow and ice gouge their way through the valleys as the solid melts at the end of winter.

As we moved through the Italian alpine regions towards Austria, it was interesting to note that the appearance of the alpine villages began to resemble those of the adjoining country more and more closely.

Even before we arrived at the Austrian border, I was waiting for the sight of Julie Andrews dancing across the valleys with the Swiss children in tow behind whilst learning that the hills are alive with the sound of music.

 

Categories : Destinations, Road, Vacations
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Tren Italia train service 9715

Tren Italia train service 9715

Train 9715 is an express service to Venezia – the trip lasts about 2 hours.

First class reserved seating is excellent on this train, with facing seats, power for computers, chargers, etc.

We happen to be in seats 91 and 92, rather than in seat 61. Although this means that we’re at one end of the carriage, this has offered us a chance to store our luggage behind the seat, rather than needing to heft it up onto the overhead racks.

This train is clean, so the windows do offer a clear view out, and should be able to get some photographs en route.

We’ve noted that announcements are made in both Italian and English – so we have some idea of what is going on.

It’s interesting to note the number of Italian flags hanging from many of the flats and other accommodation units as we pass through the suburban regions of Torino and Milan. The people who live here are obviously very proud of their heritage.

The land around Milan seems very flat. We noticed on the way into Milan a large number of what looked a little like rice paddies, full of water. It would be interesting to find out what the purpose of these may be.

As we pass through the surrounding agricultural areas, we can recognise canola amongst the crops, a number of market gardens with hot houses and quite a significant amount of land let to fallow, and others with new crops just breaking through the surface of the soil with summer approaching.

Travelling by rail is certainly an improvement upon driving yourself around Europe – you can let somebody else get you to your destination on time and in a much more relaxed state.

The express train services are also much faster than private car, and you can often enjoy views that wouldn’t be available when travelling along the major roadways.

A nice touch has been the opportunity to enjoy a complimentary drink and snack as a part of the first class service. We have each enjoyed a glass of Berlucchi Vintage 2004 sparkling wine. Try doing that while you’re driving.

After a brief stop at Brescia, the route ran through a substantial area that combined light industrial activity with some market gardening.

Further along, we began to see many vineyards, and were lucky enough to glimpse Lake Garda in the distance. This brought back memories of a previous trip when we spent a week or so at Valpolicella just north of Verona, enjoying some local wine and and visiting Lake Garda during our stay.

Following a stop at Verona, the train is travelling towards Padua, and eventually stopping at Venezia, St Lucia. We alight at Venezia Mestre however in preparation for the next leg of our tour.

This trip is of course a reminder of many of Shakespeare’s classics, including Romeo And Juliet, The Merchant Of Venice and Two Gentlemen Of Verona.

 

Categories : Destinations, Rail, Vacations
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Elipsos dining carriage

The dining carriage aboard the Elipsos Salvador Dali Express

Unfortunately, our carriage was quite old, and the outside of the train could have done with a clean to enable a better view through the windows of both our cabin and of the dining carriage.

We managed to get some sleep on the Elipsos night train from Barcelona to Milan, but the quality of the sleep wasn’t what we had hoped for.

Our Gran Classe cabin was directly over the wheels of our carriage, and we were therefore aware of almost every movement in the train as it ran along the tracks. Although this did eventually manage to lull us to sleep, we then awoke every time the train came to as halt, and then needed to be “lulled” all over again.

With the Gran Classe booking, we were entitled to a cabin with private WC and shower facilities, as well as gourmet dinner with wines and a 5 star breakfast.

Whilst the gourmet dinner was quite pleasant and did offer a welcoming glass of champagne and a choice of wines with the meal, my impression was that the “5 star breakfast” left a little to be desired. A plate containing some fruit, a slice of almost cold toast and mostly inedible chocolate pastry was laid out in front of us, with a glass of orange juice and the opportunity for a cup of tea (black) or coffee (white or black).

We were left wondering just what was meant by the term “5 star” and just what a “4 star” breakfast would have included.

My overall impression of the Elipsos rail product is less than totally favourable, and we will be interested in comparing this service with that offered by Deutsch Bahn on a train with similar configuration on our second last night in Europe. The DB train is considerably lower in price, so time will tell.

In terms of costings, our 15 day global Eurail pass cost us $900 for a group saver 1st class pass for the two of us. The additional cost for the Gran Classe cabin on the Elipsos train was $320 for a passholder reservation.

Overall however, the concept of using a night train to travel from city centre to city centre overnight remains a good one. Not only do you find that your accommodation is covered, you also have the benefit of enjoying 2 meals and travelling a considerable distance whilst you are sleeping.

If you include all of these aspects together, then the cost of the night train service can be seen in a different light.

Later today, our journey continues with a rail trip from Milan to Mestre, a coach sector from Mestre to Villach in Austria and a final rail sector from Villach into Ljubljana. We’re due to arrive in Ljubljana at about 9:06 pm.

It will be interesting to see how efficient the performance of the various rail systems compares during this very busy day for us.

 

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Elipsos Trenhotel carriages

Elipsos Trenhotel carriages

I’m writing this story aboard the Salvador Dali Tren Hotel en route between Barcelona Estacio de Franca station and Milano.

We decided that no European rail vacation would be complete without the opportunity to experience what is allegedly the best that the European rail system has on offer.

The Elipsos Gran Classe cabin includes a private bathroom, shower, additional services and facilities (including a morning paper that you can read – if you are able). The better options are that you can also enjoy a gourmet dinner and a 5 star breakfast.

The gourmet dinner was interesting – we went in early, and discovered that the advice from our conductor to get in for dinner early was quite good.

The dining room was amazing – with settings for about 36 people. Because we were the first in a seat, we had the advantage of putting in the first orders for dinner. As the others began to arrive, our waiter became increasingly flustered, and the delay between contacts with the waiting staff increased dramatically. However, from our perspective, the dinner was very enjoyable, with three courses, champagne to start and a choice of wines to accompany starters, main courses and dessert.

We were however somewhat surprised to discover that a selection of cheeses was exactly as described, with no choice of greens or crackers to accompany them.

We’re currently sitting on a station straddling the Spain and France border, probably waiting for the French customs guys to determine that everybody aboard the train is a fit and proper person to enter the Republic of France. We’ll probably have to endure the same exercise at the border with Italy, but hopefully we’ll all be asleep when this happens.

Whilst we decided to pre-pay for accommodation upon the Elipsos Gran Classe suite, we are at the moment feeling a bit concerned about whether the amount of gear that we are carrying is going to easily fit on board future trains during our trips through the Eastern Bloc countries of Europe.

We’ll sign off now, and attempt to enjoy a pleasant night of sleep on the Salvador Dali Express where we can wake up in Milano, and consider the trip through France to be behind us.

Keep an eye out for the next instalment.

 

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Las Ramblas - Barcelona, Spain

Las Ramblas - Barcelona

 

We’re in northern Spain today.

We have have just completed two days attempting to experience and see everything that Barcelona  has to offer the visitor – an impossible task.

Barcelona truly captures the essence of a wide range of artists, architects, and others with an intense imagination and vision of just how exciting a city that combines a wealth of vivid colors, rich and vibrant scents, amazing shapes and unforgettable flavors.

The names of some of the most well known individuals with links to Barcelona and its northern Spain include:

  • Antonio Gaudi
  • Pablo Picasso
  • Salvador Dali
  • Joan Miro
  • Jose Carreras
  • Pablo Cassals

Within the old quarter of the city of Barcelona, it is easy to become entangled in the history of this part of Spain and the vibrance of the narrow winding streets and alleyways often crowded with a mix of locals and tourists from all over the world, especially during the weekly Sunday family promenade.

According to legend, Hercules founded the city in Spain some 4 centuries before the establishment of Rome.

In the 3rd century B.C. The region was redeveloped by Hannibal’s father, Hamilcar Barca of Carthaginia. The current name for the city owes its origins to this time. However, another school of opinion credits the name to the ancient Iberians who are said to have founded a village named Barkeno on the site over 2000 years ago.

However, whatever the true origins of the city, Barcelona remains an exciting place to visit whilst you’re traveling through northern Spain and in which to become immersed during your stay.

It nowadays boasts some 1,700,000 residents, with its urban region being home to more than 12% of all Spain and well over 75% of Spain’s  Catalonian community.

We arrived at the Port of Barcelona on board Royal Caribbean’s Liberty Of The Seas on the morning of Saturday April 16th, after stopping in a number of ports in Spain, and were taken directly to our hotel for our overnight stay, the Salles Pere IV Hotel. To find out more visit: Peres IV Hotel Barcelona Spain

We were lucky enough to be able to access our room immediately, and consolidated the plans for our activities during our stay in Barcelona.

We purchased a 2-day metro card for 11.5 euros each, and this allowed us access to a wide range of transport options, including the city’s underground metro system, the Renfe (railways of Spain) local rail network, many buses and trams.

We made extensive use of this means of transport, since Barcelona does have an extremely efficient and effective public transport system.

Our travels took us for a stroll along La Rambla – the main tourist shopping region of Barcelona. In addition, we travelled on the Rodalies de Catalunya rail service to Castelldefels, a great seaside community some 20 km south of downtown Barcelona. We spent time exploring the historic quarter, admiring the wide variety of architecture and also enjoying the waterfront marina featuring Historical Museum of Catalunya.

We’ll shortly be boarding our TrenHotel (the Salvador Dali service) from Barcelona’s Estacio de Franca to Milano.

More of experiences in Spain later.

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bighead dancers on wharf

Big Head Dancers on Valencia Dock

The first thing that struck us as our ship, the Liberty Of The Seas approached its dock in Valencia was the effort that the Valencia Tourism Foundation put into welcoming the ship and its passengers into the city.

As the passengers began to disembark for a few hours of exploration of this unique destination, a group of musicians and dancers, many sporting fantastic heads. Giants and Big Heads (Gigantes y Cabezudos) have been borrowed from the adjacent Catalan region of Spain, and offer a unique and entertaining spectacle.

The performers, dressed in traditional clothing wear caricature heads that match the clothing style then perform traditional folk dances.

This performance continued for some 2 hours after the ship docked.

Valencia is understood to be Spain’s most important and largest container port.

Whilst Valencia has in the past been seen as a very industrial port city, during the last decade the local Tourism Foundation has really begun to concentrate on promoting Valencia as an area with a rich and diverse culture and customs, as well as exciting social characteristics.

One of the things in favor of this push is that Valencia is able to offer a rich tapestry of architectural history and heritage. Luckily, the people of Valencia have not torn down the old to build up the new.

Unfortunately, the bus trip from the dock into the city center took some 40 minutes, thus reducing the available time for a thorough exploration of Valencia.

In retrospect, because the downtown area of the city is quite spread out, we would probably have been advised to have boarded on of the double deck Valencia Tour Buses that offer a 24 hour ticket for some 15 euros.

However, we elected to walk around the commercial part of Valencia, discovering some of the shops, cafes and historical public buildings.

Excavation in Downtown Valencia

Excavation in Downtown Valencia

Whilst we wandered around the city, we found ourselves concentrating more on the smaller back streets with their variety of shops, many with fascinating displays of herbs and spices, teas, figurines and many other wares.

It was interesting to note that the inveterate shopper of our group  discovered a substantial price difference between shops in the back streets compared with those on the major thoroughfares.

An example of the uncovering of heritage was discovered during our tour of the city when, quite unexpectedly, we chanced upon an excavation on a vacant block of land.

It appeared that, whilst digging foundations for a new building, the workmen had discovered an ancient ruin which was now in the process of being carefully excavated.

 

Categories : Destinations, Sea, Vacations
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The Alcazaba, Malaga

The Alcazaba, Malaga

One of the ports of call on our transatlantic cruise aboard Royal Caribbean’s Liberty of the Seas is Malaga.

Malaga is located on the southern coast of the Iberian Peninsula in the western part of the Mediterranean, and is the southernmost large city in Europe.

Malaga was founded by the Phoenicians as Malaka in about 770 B.C. Since that time, it has been under the control of many different cultures and civilizations, from that of Ancient Carthage, the Roman Empire, the Moors, and finally under Spanish rule.

It has a very strong and diverse culture and amongst other important influences, Malaga is also the birthplace of Pablo Picasso.

The Costa Del Sol has become a very popular tourist and resort region on the Spanish Coast, and it extends both to the east and west of Malaga. As a result of the influx of millions of tourists each year, most of whom arrive through the Malaga International Airport, the city has become much more busy than it was traditionally only a few decades ago.

One of the first things that we noted as we alighted from the coaches that transported us from the port into Malaga was the lovely and lush park lands that extend almost into the city center. There were seemingly dozens of horses with carriages ready to take tourists on a tour of both the old parts of town as well as the more recent additions.

The people of the Andalusian region of Spain are proud of the exotic mix of cultures that make up their heritage. The region exhibits a wide array of unique social customs that combine aspects of Islamic tradition with a strong influence of Catholicism.

We decided to soak up the atmosphere of Malaga by walking around the inner and historical areas of the city.

This part of the city is characterized by narrow cobblestone streets with a wide variety of shopfronts, impressive public squares, an amazing cathedral and an ancient Roman amphitheater.

Any tour of Malaga would be incomplete without a visit to the Alcazaba. This is a Muslim palace and fortress that dominates the city center, facing out onto the Mediterranean shore. It was built during the 11th Century as a palace for the rulers of the city as well as a defense against attacks from the sea.

The wonderful gardens that line the waterfront add to the magic that is Malaga today.

 

Categories : Destinations, Sea
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