Breakfast Buffet At Marrols Hotel

Breakfast Buffet At Marrols Hotel

On the day that we traveled from Bratislava to Prague, we decided to treat ourselves to a special meal whilst in Vienna.

At the beginning of the day, we enjoyed a lovely breakfast at the Boutique Hotel Marrol in Bratislava. The hotel is a member of the Small Luxury Hotels group, and we definitely found that this was an excellent description for the hotel itself.

The breakfast was a buffet style, with a very wide range of offerings covering a very broad range of gastronomical tastes.

We enjoyed a choice of smoked salmon, poached or scrambled eggs, frankfurts or grilled sausages, bacon, mushrooms, tomatoes, a beautiful selection of cheeses and cold meats, espresso coffees prepared to order, a wide selection of breads and danish style pastries, and fresh and lovely fruits.

One of the most impressive things about our breakfast at the hotel was the opportunity to enjoy a glass of lovely Slovakian sparkling dry white wine to start our day.

Despite all of this breadth of offering, we decided upon a light breakfast, remembering that we had a luncheon reservation upon arrival into Vienna.

Following a very interesting ride down to Schwedenplatz in Vienna on a high speed catamaran (see this article about that trip), we made our way to the Gastwirtschaft Huth Restaurant located at 5 Schwellinggasse (close to StadtPark) in downtown Vienna.

Our trip from the boat to the restaurant in Vienna was fairly straightforward. We made use of the very fast and efficient U-Bahn underground system from Schwedenplatz to Stadtpark station.

Despite having to endure slightly damp weather in Vienna (the first rain we had seen since we arrived into Europe some 10 days earlier) we were able to successfully manage the short walk from the station to the restaurant, arriving some 5 minutes after the time of our reservation.

The staff in the restaurant were marvelous, assisting us in the task of storing our belongings next to the bar whilst we enjoyed the meal, then attending to our needs very well indeed.

Huth Restaurant, Vienna

Huth Restaurant, Vienna

We discovered and made a booking at this restaurant as a result of the reviews and ratings that we found under Vienna on the Trip Advisor web site.

This eating place was rated extremely highly by others who had visited, and offered the type of food and eating experience that we were seeking whilst in Vienna for just a few hours.

We decided to try out both sides of the menu. The menu (provided in English) listed a selection of traditional Vienna dishes as well as a modern “interpretation” selection based on capturing the best in Viennese cuisine but using more imaginative ingredients and preparation styles.

Barbara selected a crème of roasted wild garlic soup with spring onions. Her comments were that this soup was one to die for. The color had a subtle pale green tinge to it, apparently extracted from some spring onions that had been mixed with the roasted garlic and whisked. The addition of cream and some subtle herbs and spices resulted in a soup that had a great texture (not too smooth) with subtle hints of the garlic and onion flavors melding together.

The presentation of the dish at the table was also quite memorable. A bowl with a centrepiece of pieces of roasted pork mixed with chopped chives was put at Barbara’s place, then the soup was poured into the bowl at the table.

My soup was also excellent. It was a traditional Vienna beef consomme that was served with some chives and a duck liver dumpling (again served at the table). The overall taste was quite complex with the richness of the liver dumpling offered a good counterpoint to the delicate flavors of the consomme.

For our main course, I selected to try a genuine Vienna Cordon Bleu, while Barbara chose a dish of crumbed pork and mustard pieces.

Both dishes were accompanied by a side dish of potatoes, one with chives and the other with winter greens. The presentation of the potatoes was extremely interesting, since they were finely cut and served in a bowl mixed with a thickened broth, spanish onions and winter greens.

My cordon bleu was succulent without being either too rich or greasy. The escalope of veal (absolutely white) was folded over a slice of prosciutto style ham. The cheese as rich and creamy, and the flavors combined together very nicely indeed. This appeared to me to be one of the best cordon bleu dishes available in Vienna.

Barbara’s dish was very nice, although she felt that it didn’t have quite the “wow” factor of her first course. The pieces of thinly sliced pork were coated with a mild mustard then crumbed and lightly fried.

The result was perhaps not that different from a vienna schnitzel prepared with pork, rather than veal.

We both enjoyed a wine with our main courses. Barbara selected a riesling style wine that was crisp, dry and showed fresh floral characteristics. I went for a cabernet merlot style wine of 2005 vintage. Very nice indeed!

Unfortunately time was against us in terms of sampling the desserts and coffee at the restaurant, because we needed to board our train to Prague on the other side of Vienna.

We would certainly recommend this restaurant to anybody visiting Vienna who is looking for a combination of excellent food, great service and a convenient location.

After our arrival into Prague we found our way to the hotel at about 8:00 pm, and must confess that we decided not to indulge too much further. We simply enjoyed a quiet and very light repast before retiring for the night.

If you are traveling through Vienna, then you really should allow time for a meal (or two).

Categories : Food and Wine
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An unplanned component of our trip arrived by virtue of a stroll along the banks of the Danuj (Danube River) yesterday afternoon. As we watched the activity with river cruisers, tourist sight-seeing boats and others on Easter Monday, we noticed a fast Twin City Liner catamaran pull into one of the landings by the river’s edge.

Twin Cities Liner on Danube River

Twin Cities Liner on Danube River

We noted down the name of the service operating the boat on the Danube, and checked up on its activities online.

It turns out that the Twin City Liner runs regular commuter and tourist services along the River
Danube between the two capital cities.

Vienna and Bratislava are the two nearest capital cities in Europe, being only some 60 km apart and both built across the Danube River, so opportunities do arise for services such as this one which is able to make 6 international trips between European capitals in a single day.

The Twin City Liner service runs along the Danube from 3 to 5 times per day (season dependent), and takes between 75 and 90 minutes for the journey (depending on the direction of travel).

We thought that this would be a great opportunity to see more of the countryside in both Slovakia and Austria, as well as to experience travel along the Danube.

The cost for the Twin City Liner was somewhat lower than on a river cruiser, with our single leg from Bratislava directly into Schwedenplatz in Vienna costing only 19 euros each.

Unfortunately, the weather has closed in somewhat overnight, and the views from our catamaran are not as bright as they could otherwise be.

There are about 30 other travelers on our service, although we suspect that the later services may well carry more people. Ours is the first up river service of the day, having already delivered from Vienna those tourists who have planned for a day in Bratislava.

We have been astonished by the size of this river, and particularly at the speed of the water that is flowing down towards the sea. I’ve estimated a speed of some 8 knots in some sections, when gauged by the wake generated by the stationary channel markers.

The Twin City Liner travels along the River Danube at a speed of some 50 km/h.

The vital statistics of the boat are as follows: engines – 2 each with 1000 hp capacity, driving water jets. The catamaran itself has a length of 34 metres, a breadth of 8.5 metres, and a draft of just 1 metre. The maximum speed capacity of the boat is said to be 75 km/h.

As we are traveling up the Danube river, we are noticing a number of little huts (raised off the ground) with wood burning stoves and heaters and the bare necessities for riverside life. We can’t tell whether these are available for rental or are simply weekenders for Viennese families, but they certainly would offer a unique “out of town” experience.

This is a great opportunity to travel in a different way, and to enjoy the vista and sense of traveling along the Danube – an iconic European river.

Categories : Destinations, Sea, Vacations
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Bratislava is a delightful place to visit

We visited Bratislava on the evening of Easter Sunday, and stayed until Tuesday morning.

In some ways this was a little unfortunate since most of the shops (and indeed the tourist information offices) were closed for the Easter break, and we therefore had to make the most of our own resources to discover just what Bratislava has to offer the independent tourist.

We were quite surprised about the breadth and variety of historic buildings and architectural monuments that abound in the old town sections of the city, despite the fact that this city seems to receive less tourist information and publicity than many other places in this region of Europe.

We are able to report that we enjoyed our time in Bratislava immensely.

Bratislava is a very compact city, and it is possible to walk around the old town region of the city at a relaxed pace, yet have sufficient time to take in the history and grandeur of the old Bratislava.

Napoleon leaning over a seat in the square in Bratislava

Napoleon leaning over a seat in the square

Even today, Bratislava’s population is less than half a million people, so the city still maintains a human scale, enabling the tourist a much better

opportunity to interact with some of the locals and find out some more about what it is like to live in Bratislava today.
We found that the time we spent walking about Bratislava was one of one surprise and delight after another. Not only was a seat in the old town square somewhat distinguished by a gentleman in eighteenth century uniform leaning over and looking over the shoulder of anyone sitting there, but

Bronze papparazi photographer in Bratislava

Bronze papparazi photographer in Bratislava

around another corner just a block away, a sly photographer was catching a snapshot of events in the next street (maybe a 1920′s version of the papparazi!).

 

As we visited Bratislava on Easter Monday, there was a service underway in the Cathedral adjacent to the square. A number of tourists took the opportunity to join with the local people in the church to celebrate the Christian significance of this time of the year.

The castle overlooking Bratislava (Hrad Castle) dominates the town, and has outstanding views in both directions along the Danube River (Danuj), as well as the surrounding lands. It was documented as early as 907 A.D., and has had many face lifts as it’s function has changed over the centuries. It is currently undergoing major internal renivations, and unfortunately the inside is not open to visitors at the moment.

Ice Hockey Player Sculpture

Ice Hockey Player Sculpture

The other aspect of Bratislava that became very obvious as we continued our tour of the city is the fact that the forthcoming world Ice Hockey Championships are due to be held in the city in late April and Early May of 2011. We encountered a number of slightly larger than life hockey players in various colours located around the city in strategic locations.

This event will be a major boost to Bratislava, bringing the eyes of the world to this great part of Europe for at least a few days.

We encountered many local people during our time in Bratislava, and found that the majority had sufficient grasp of the English language to make themselves understood, and (more importantly for us) to understand our comments and questions.

We wouldn’t hesitate in recommending that Slovakia and Bratislava should be on the itinerary of anyone planning to visit this part of Europe.

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Marrol's Hotel Bratislava - Lobby

Marrol's Hotel Bratislava - Lobby

While we were visiting Bratislava, we decided to experience the ambience and facilities of Marrol’s Boutique Hotel, just a three minute stroll away from the waterfront of the Danuj (Danube River).

You can find out more about this hotel by visiting their website at: http://www.hotelmarrols.sk/

Marrol’s is a member of the Small Luxury Hotels group, a selection of small boutique hotels around the world.

Members of this group of hotels must meet certain minimum standards, yet offer a much more personalised level of service than is usually available with the larger hotel chains.

This was certainly the case when we checked in at Marrol’s  Hotel .

We were ushered in to a space more reminiscent of a Victorian salon than reception desk. After being seated, we were offered a choice of welcoming drink whilst going through the paperwork. We both selected to sample the Slovakian sparkling wine Hugo, which is available in a sweet or dry variety.

Once we finished the check in process, we were taken up to our room where we had been told that everything in the room was complimentary. This inlcuded all of the tea and coffee materials, chocolates and wafer biscuits, as well as the contents of the mini bar, which was refilled daily.

The mini bar contents included the usual natural and lightly gassed waters, Slovakian beer, a hlf bottle of really enjoyable Slovakian Riesling wine andd some chocolates and nuts.

The room itself was extremely comfortable, beautifully furnished and appointed with real timber finishes and lovely bathroom amenities. The hotel also provided good quality bathrobes, slippers and shoe cleaning and polishing accessories, etc.

Marrol’s hotel had an enclosed summer garden, ideal for guests wishing to relax outside but still in the privacy of the hotel. Complimentary soft drinks were available to guests enjoying this space.

Complimentary internet access and breakfast were of course included in the tariff for the hotel.

Marrol’s Hotel also offers the Jasmine Spa area in which guests are able to indulge. Not only is it possible to book a wide range of massages in the spa, but guests have the opportunity to book the facility, including exclusive usage of the whirlpool spa, sauna, plunge pool, shower facilities and relaxation area as well as a complimentary bar (beer, wine and soft drink) and fresh fruit.

Breakfast at Marrol’s is also something to experience. The buffet selection was very extensive, with almost any taste catered for.

Guests could begin their meal with a glass of sparkling wine (we did), and then follow up with cereals, fruit selections, espresso coffee to order, cold meat and cheeses selections (with an extensive range of cheeses), pates, a range of hot breakfast choices, including three varieties of eggs, bacon, sausages, frankfurts, tomatoes, mushrooms and a traditional Slovakian bean accompaniment.

Not to mention the fantastic range of breads and both sweet and savoury pastries.

The hotel also boasts a great restaurant which serves a range of modern and traditional Slovakian dishes together with a very wide and reasonably priced wine list.

For anyone who would like to spoil themselves with fantastic and memorable service at a very affordable price, please make a point of booking your accommodation at Marrol’s Boutique Hotel during your visit to Bratislava.

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OBB RailJet Train At Budapest Station

OBB RailJet Train At Budapest Station

Austria’s Railjet train

We decided to experience the Railjet service between Budapest and Vienna so that we could experience how this high speed service compares in ride and service quality with that offered by other rail providers.
The OBB Railjet train is defined by the Austrian Railway System Provider OBB to stand for speed, comfort, design, top modern equipment and a completely new service concept.
It is interesting to note that due to the fact that much of the travel of the railjet train service is in neighboring countries, the railjet concept doesn’t rely upon the inclusion the locomotive as a part of the overall design concept.
Whilst the Thalys, ICE and Eurostar trains have a design that integrates the locomotive tightly into the overall design of the overall train profile, our trip from Budapest to Vienna had a Hungarian locomotive attached to the Railjet carriages in a more conventional configuration.
Once the train reached the Austrian border, one of the Railjet locomotives replaced the Hungarian engine, and so the train arrived into Vienna looking much more streamlined than it did when it left Budapest.
We were extremely impressed with the first class layout and configuration of the Railjet carriage. The interior of the train was subtly colored, and the quality of the seats and configuration of tables between facing pairs of seats was well appreciated.
The only thing that we did notice was that as a part of the exterior design elements of this train, the word “Railjet” is emblazoned across the sided of the carriages, and as a result, some seats had window views somewhat obstructed by the lettering attached to the outside of the train.
Railjet is different to many other services across Europe in that it offers 3 grades of train travel, Economy, First and Premium.
Premium class is a different level of train travel  service and features comfortable leather armchairs with foot rests, arranged into semi-partitioned compartments containing 2, 3 or 4 seats each.
The premium class fare, which costs 25 euros more than First Class, includes snacks and soft drinks.
We travelled in first class, however, since the sector was only about about 3 hours, and there was no need to upgrade to the premium level.
Even in first class, the seating was extremely comfortable, a luggage storage space was also provided, resulting in a much less congested passenger space and we were also impressed with the information screen at the end of each section of the train carriage.
This screen updated regularly with a map of the route travelled, showing the current position of the train, information about the stations on the route, including major transfer options, and a speedometer that indicated how fast we were travelling at an time. Although we didn’t exceed 160 km/h during our trip, I understand that speeds of 200 km/h are not uncommon on some of the lines.
We were also well looked after by a train attendant who was able to provide advice and offer any assistance we needed.
We really enjoyed our travel on Railjet, and would strongly recommend it to anybody looking to travel by rail in or out of Austria.
Once we arrived into Vienna (at Meidling station), we needed to transfer to Vienna’s Ostbahn station for our rail journey north to Bratislava.
This required 2 train changes.
At Meidling, we needed to find our way to another platform, and managed to make our connection by the skin of our teeth. In fact, we believe that the conductor may have held up the departure of the S-Bahn train by 30 seconds to allow us on board.
A couple of stops later we had arrived at the Ostbahn S-Bahn station (an underground station). From here, we needed to locate a lift to bring both us and our luggage up to street level.
At the present time, Vienna’s rail system is in a major state of change. The task of replacing a number of stations with a central Vienna Railway Station is underway. This project has a time frame of some 2.5 years. As a result of these changes, most of the old Ostbahn railway station has now been demolished to make way for the new lines and structure that will eventually steer rail traffic from the south, east and west of Vienna into a central point.
Of course, this means that the task of traveling from on line to another is not easy at present.
As a result, we needed to lug our belongings across several streets and a bus station towards the only street level component of the original Ostbahn infrastructure.
We arrived at our regional express train to Bratislava again with only seconds to spare (about 60 seconds in this case).
The REX train from Vienna Sudbahnhof (Ostbahn) to Bratislava did not seem to be quite the level of express that we had anticipated. I think that I counted some 10 stations that we stopped at along the 60 km route.
One of the things that anybody traveling on a Eurail Pass should be aware of is that Slovakia has not yet joined up with the Eurail system. As a result, your Eurail Pass will not cover any rail trips in Slovakia itself.
Once we traveled across the border, we were asked to purchase a ticket to cover our journey to Bratislava. For the two of us, this ticket cost just 4.20 euros. However, had we elected to travel on a more direct service form Budapest to Bratislava (and miss the trip on the Railjet train), then the cost from the border would have been something like 30 euros each.
We traveled in that section of the last carriage that is normally reserved for bicycles, wheelchairs and luggage storage, and therefore had little chance to enjoy such comforts that the REX train may have had on offer – although from what we were able to see, these were precious little.

All in all, the contrast between the luxury of the OBB Railjet and the austerity of the REX train service to Bratislava was quite noticeable.

Categories : Destinations, Rail, Vacations
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A six carriage tram in Budapest

A six carriage tram in Budapest

We discovered that Budapest was a city in which there were a number of things that many might find a little confusing, so it is worth while giving some hints and tips to make your visit to Hungary just that little bit smoother.

Whilst Hungary is a part of the European Union, it still maintains its own currency, so that it will be necessary to convert funds into the local currency when you enter Hungary.

You are advised to carry sufficient funds in the local Hungarian currency to ensure that you are able to pay for those purchases for which credit cards are not acceptable – we did find a few of these during our stay in Budapest.

The Hungarian florint (HUF) currently has an exchange rate of some 260 to the euro, so be prepared to have many high value notes in your possession after changing your funds (mind you, they also disappear back out quite rapidly as well).

As an example, the cost of our taxi ride from the railway station to our accommodation came to just under 5000 HUF.

We recommend that you make use of the great public transport system that Budapest has to offer the visitor as a means of getting around the City efficiently and within a reasonable time frame.

Although some parts of the City are quite compact, the division of Budapest by the Danube River means that some of the travelling distances are greater than would otherwise be the case if there wasn’t the need to travel up river or down river to the nearest bridge.

The transport system is efficient and very cost effective. Tickets can be used on all of the modes of transport, so there is no need to purchase different tickets for different types of transport vehicle. Individual tickets can be purchased at machines which are located at many tram stops, at metro stations and other City locations. These machines are mostly coin operated, although there are also note and credit card operated machines at metro stations.

When you purchase your tickets at the metro stations, you are given a greater choice in the types of ticket available. In addition, it is possible to purchase tickets at newsagents and tobacconists. Single tickets cost around 260 HUF (approximately 1 euro). However, other options are available for those wishing to make more extensive use of the system.

We purchased 24 hour tickets from a ticket machine at Moskova metro station for 1550 HUF (approximately 6 euros). These allow you unlimited access to all modes of transport for 24 hours. I did note that you can adjust the start time of the ticket on the machine prior to purchase.

Tickets for longer periods are also available at proportionately lower prices.

For those wishing to make lots of use of site visits and do a lot of sightseeing, the Budapest Card may suit your needs perfectly.

This card is offered for 2-day or 3-day periods, and also covers children under the age of 14 travelling with the card holder.

The card offers free travel on Budapest’s public transport system, free admission to over 60 museums and other important sites and discounts for city sightseeing tours by bus and boat, for folklore and cultural programs and spa baths, restaurants and a number of other businesses in the City.

Prices quoted for this card range from 6300 HUF (about 24 euros) for a 2 day card to 7500 HUF (about 29 euros) for a 3 day card.

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Budapest's Parliament Buildings

Budapest's Parliament Buildings

We have just finished a 2-day stay in Budapest, the capital of Hungary.

We have enjoyed great weather in all of our destinations in Europe so far, but have to say that this morning’s weather in Budapest looks a little threatening, with some showers forecast for later today.

At this stage, we’ll just have to see how much longer our luck holds out in terms of near perfect spring weather.

Upon our arrival into Budapest (via Keleti Station) we were once again confronted by a scary taxi ride. This time, the driver had to take us across the Danube River from Pest to Buda.

The aggressive driving shown by this driver made me very happy that we hadn’t decided to rent a vehicle during this part of the trip, since the chances of having to return the vehicle and try to explain body damage (to the vehicle or to us) would have been quite high.

Whilst we eventually arrived at the correct destination, the driver’s need to search for locations on his vehicle mounted GPS device whilst driving through the heavy traffic streams around Budapest made us doubt this on several occasions.

Our accommodations were at the amazing Buda Hill Apartments, a short walking distance from the Buda Castle and close to the Mamut (Mammoth) shopping center and to Muskova Metro Station.

The building is absolutely amazing, with a mix of the traditional curves and domes of the Byzantine style with parallel elements which fit much more within the modernist architectural outlooks. This makes it a definite Budapest landmark.

The result is a building with vast numbers of nooks and crannies, where each apartment will have a different outlook and where relatively few spaces are of the simple rectangular shape that we tend to take for granted.

We chose this particular location because it met our basic requirements for our accommodation units: complimentary wireless internet, good locations for access to tourism sites and shopping facilities and either breakfast included or self contained accommodation.

Overall, we enjoyed Buda Hill Apartments, although the washing machine almost had the better of us at first. The control symbols were far from obvious, and it turned out that under some circumstances the bowl would never actually empty, and the washing cycle would then continue for ever (or until we became sick of this and went to find a copy of a user’s guide from reception.

One odd thing that we observed during our stay in Budapest was that reception was only open from 8:00 am to 8:00 pm, and that the staffing during these times consisted of one receptionist accompanied by a security guard who tended to pass away the time by watching a small television receiver.

Budapest is well served by public transport, with trains, trams, trolley buses and an underground metro service that is notable in being the first underground railway on the continent.

The contrast between different modes of transport in Budapest is quite marked, from the carriages in the metro, that seem to remain relatively unchanged in well over half a century to the ultra-modern 6 section trams that seem more like small trains than trams.

The City of Budapest is unique in a number of ways:

  • it claims to have Europe’s largest parliament
  • Europe’s first underground railway system
  • the continent’s largest functioning synagogue
  • still operating Turkish baths – 12 medicinal baths, 100 thermal springs

Budapest also boasts an incredibly diverse range of special buildings and unique architectural styles.

Wandering around Budapest, you’ll be able to find the remains of Roman fortresses and buildings, gothic and baroque buildings, a wide range of Art Nouveau styles and some emerging examples of contemporary architecture.

Categories : Destinations, Rail, Vacations
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Even seasoned train travelers can occasionally find a surprise during a trip!

We boarded the 1st class train compartment of our service from Serbia into Hungary expecting a pleasant but unexciting journey of some 9 hours between one capital city and the next.

We had believed that the days of mystery and excitement in train travel were now behind us and remained in the era of Agatha Christie and Hercule Poirot. How wrong we were!

The first half of the journey went pretty smoothly.

En route we were interested in the sudden transitions between examples of real slum development poverty and prosperous commercial developments and residential neighborhoods, often just on opposite sides of the train track.

We then moved on to the flat agricultural lands beyond the cities in northern Serbia, and often could see nothing but fields, some freshly ploughed and others with crops breaking through the surface.

We also noted a high number of eagle nests in trees, many pheasants enjoying the delights of spring in the ground below and hares the size of dogs doing their thing as well.

However, once we arrived at the border with Hungary, things became more interesting.

The train stopped at the border station so that the Serbian authorities could do a final passport check before passing the train and its passengers on to the Hungarians.

The other passengers had left the train at this time, and we were alone in the carriage (or so we thought).

Suddenly our musings were interrupted by a gentleman who came up to us and asked whether we were travelling into Hungary. Although he didn’t look like a train company or government official, we nevertheless agreed that this was what we were doing.

Shortly afterward, two well dressed ladies boarded the train carriage, moved forward to the electrical control panel at the end of the carriage, and to our surprise opened the panel and manipulated some switchgear.

Ceiling panels in first class train carriage

Ceiling panels in first class carriage

Next, the original man and another were in the rear section of the 1st class train compartment working with electric screwdrivers to remove a number of ceiling panels. Once these were off, something was stuffed into the spaces revealed, and the panels were then replaced.

Finally another woman of the sort you wouldn’t like to come across on a dark night walked up to the from of our carriage and opened another panel to place an item wrapped in newspaper into the compartment revealed.

The original gentleman then came back, indicating to us that we should remain silent about anything we had seen.

The well dressed women then took some seats well apart from us and from each other, whilst the others moved down the train into 2nd class.

Eventually the train moved forward across the Hungarian border and stopped again. A number of Hungarian officials boarded the train, checking passports, whilst another railway person completed a final ticket check.

Following a further extended delay (about 90 minutes) the train continued its journey.

Whilst en route, we discovered that the group in 2nd class had returned back into our train carriage. We then saw one of the men climb onto the luggage racks and lie along them. The electric screwdriver was again put into action, so that the goods could be removed from their hiding place. Once this task was completed, the goods were transferred into bags, and the electrical compartment was once again accessed.

The scary woman returned to the front compartment to remove her package (which to our fevered imagination had about the shape and weight of a handgun), and return to the others.

At the next stop of our train, the scary woman left the train carrying (or maybe dragging) the two bags across the tracks to a parked car where another lady was waiting. When last seen, the parked car together with 2 women on board left the area, and the train continued on its way towards Budapest.

Whilst we have no idea just what we were witnessing, the scenes brought back memories of some of the episodes of a television show set in France during the time of Nazi occupation called “ ‘Allo ‘Allo”.

The blatancy of what was most probably some form of smuggling was to us quite astonishing (but maybe this sort of thing is quite common at least in this part of the world).

Needless to say, our attention to the countryside through which we were traveling was less acute than on the earlier parts of the train journey.

If you’re ever faced with something like this on a train journey, just stay calm and chill out!

 

Categories : Odd Spots, Rail, Security
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Tchaikovsky Restaurant

Tchaikovsky Restaurant

We were lucky enough to discover the Restaurant Tchaikovsky whilst we recently visited Belgrade (Beograd).

This eating place links the Terasije Square and Balkanska Street in the Stari Grad region of Belgrade. The restaurant is a part of the Hotel Moscow, one of the iconic accommodation venues in the most interesting part of old Belgrade.
For more information about the Tchaikovsky Restaurant and the Hotel Moskva, we recommend that you visit their website at: http://www.hotelmoskva.rs/en/ .

Here, you’ll be able to discover a lot of information about the hotel and many of the celebrities who have stayed at the hotel over the last 100 years, and also download a copy of the menu for the restaurant, so that you too an drool over some of the great dishes on their list.

We succeeded in eating at this establishment twice in the two nights that we were visiting Belgrade (it was simply so good on the first night that we had to return).

We must acknowledge the great work of Executive Chef Stojkovic Kata and his team for putting toegther such a great selection and maintaining a consistent quality.

The range of selections on the menu is excellent. We counted 8 cold appetizers, 8 soups and 8 hot appetizers before we got to mains and desserts.

We tried a number of the soup choices, and have to say that each of our selections were absolutely delicious, each with a range of unique flavors, beautifully presented and a wide selection of breads to enjoy with the soup.

For mains, we sampled the grilled marinated squid, stuffed pork fillets and turkey breasts with gorgonzola sauce. Each of these were accompanied by delicious fresh vegetables.

The salad we selected, Sopska Salad, was just magnificent, with tomato, cucumber, ground black pepper and topped with grated fetta cheese. Following the first night, we had become aware of fine slices of hot chilli carefully disguised to look like cucumber.

Although we didn’t manage to sample the desserts, we must say that they also looked absolutely magnificent.

On our second night at the restaurant, we also asked the waitress about a possible choice of wine. Having explained that we enjoyed a dry red wine without too much bite, we were recommended to try a Serbian Cabernet Merlot variety that she personally enjoyed and believed would suit our tastes. She was exactly right! The wine was one of the best that we’ve experienced out of Europe, with a subtle complexity and nose that we found very enjoyable.

In terms of costing, we found that this restaurant didn’t break the bank. The bill for the second night (with our bottle of wine) came to just over 5,100 rsd (which equates to around ? 50). We consider that this is extremely good value for a meal of this quality served in lovely surroundings, complete with background accompaniment of a pianist on a grand piano.

Whatever you do, when you visit Belgrade, don’t miss this opportunity.

 

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Belgrade - night view

Belgrade - night view - courtesy awams.com

The prehistory of the region dates back to some 6000 years B.C., when Starcevo culture resulted in an early farming settlement across the river from the present site of Belgrade.

Following many changes in the make-up of the region and its inhabitants, the region occupied by the Kalamegdan Gardens become the north western outpost of the Eastern Roman Empire in about 400 A.D.

The region now known as Serbia has changed hands so many times in the intervening 1600 years or so that it is almost impossible to keep up with who has been in control at any given time.

Since the beginning of the second world war, Belgrade has been bombed by the Germans, the Americans and NATO. Following WW2, Belgrade was liberated from the Nazis by the Soviet Red Army, and the installation of President Tito as the ruler of Yugoslavia saw the beginning of many years of socialist rule in the region, only terminated with the overthrow of Slobodan Milosevic in 2000.

As a result of the many upheavals in its recent history, Belgrade has found itself with a significant task ahead of itself when it comes to moving itself, its inhabitants and its reputation into the world of tourism and freedom of travel.

Many have stated that in the past, Serbia has suffered from something of an image problem, and whilst Milosevic and his cohorts are no longer in the picture, many Serbs will still believe that the outside world considers them to be the “scourge of the Balkans”.

However, this attitude has changed somewhat over the intervening years, and many parts of Serbia including Belgrade (or Beograd as it has been traditionally known), have begun to see that it to everybody’s advantage to invite foreigners into their environment.

However, after some 36 hours spent doing our best to do the tourist thing in Belgrade, we have to admit a little frustration.

We’ve really enjoyed those things that we have managed to experience, but nevertheless have found ourselves working very hard indeed to find out how to locate most of the experiences that Belgrade has on offer.

We arrived at our accommodation in the evening, and after leaving our belongings, decided to spend some time exploring the region around the hotel (Stari Grad). We wandered in a northerly direction up Balkanska towards Terasije, considered to be the central square of Beograd.

A prime example of the problem in following up on tourism support is exemplified by the Belgrade website: http://beograd.rs – when we visit this site and select “Discover Belgrade/Tourism” we discover 4 links, none of which are operational.

We followed this up by visiting the Tourist Organization Of Belgrade site: http://tob.rs . This site was able to tell us something about sightseeing in Belgrade, but very little of which was of much use. For example, the city tour double decker buses only operate from May to October – our visit was in late April. Similarly most walking tours of the city only run on one or two days a week, and in many cases only on one day per month.

There is a free tram service that allows the visitor to discover more about the city and what it has to offer, but it has to be pre-booked, and only operates on Fridays and Saturdays (we were there on a Thursday).

When we visited a tourist information center to find out more, we were offered a map of the city, but found that this was not of the highest accuracy, nor did it incorporate public transport information and street information on a single map.

As a result, we bumbled our way around those parts of Belgrade that we could reach, and enjoyed those that we were able to find.

We are both of the very strong belief that what is sorely needed in Belgrade is for some authority to appoint an outside person or body to spend some time in the city, recommend those things that would combine to bring a brand new tourist culture to the city, and to have sufficient pull to convince groups such as the public transport authorities that the introduction of limited time multi- sector ticketing arrangements combined with informative information services (both online and on paper) would provide a whole new source of ticketing revenue to their systems.

Whilst we have enjoyed our time in Belgrade, we consider that the amount of work required in order to get the most out of the city is too much for a short stay.

We’d love to see the result should some group be capable of instilling a more effective tourism oriented culture into Belgrade and indeed all of Serbia.

Our recommendation for those planning to visit this city as an independent traveler is to undertake all of the needed research before you arrive, so that you are not left frustrated after your arrival.

 

 

Categories : Destinations, Rail, Vacations
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